Heads held high: How a headscarf became a symbol of identity for the nation of Azerbaijan and how tradition has been renewed through eras of change

Abstract

The Azerbaijani “kelaghayi” (woman’s silk headscarf) has long been one of the most popular elements of traditional Azerbaijani clothing, and an important icon of Azerbaijani national identity. In 2014 it was included on the UNESCO list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Yet very little information is available in English about these textiles, or their manufacture and symbolism. The kelaghayi is a silk scarf made of locally produced, untwisted threads with patterns printed by the traditional resist-dye method of waxing. The ornamentation and color choice, even the method of folding the finished scarf, all carry meaning. Historical examples can be found in major museums and collections within the country of origin and beyond. The importance of kelaghayi to Azerbaijani identity can be seen in the country’s fine arts. In accepting the government of Azerbaijan’s nomination of the kelaghayi for UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, UNESCO stated: ‘The traditional practice of making and wearing headscarves is an expression of cultural identity and religious traditions and a symbol of social cohesion, reinforcing the role of women and strengthening the cultural unity of Azerbaijani society.’ The art of kelaghayi is concentrated in two localities in Azerbaijan, Sheki city and the village of Basqal (sometimes written Basgal, 2, 5). Manufacture consists of several stages: fabric weaving, dyeing and woodblock decoration. Weavers choose thin silk threads from sericulture producers and weave fabrics on looms before boiling and drying them to make square-shaped cloths. Using vegetable substances, masters then dye the cloths various colours and decorate them with patterns using wooden stamps, covered with solutions made from rosin, paraffin and solid oil. The colors of headscarves have symbolic meanings and are often tied to specific social occasions, such as weddings, mourning ceremonies and celebrations. Kelaghayi making is an art transmitted through non-formal apprenticeship only, and is primarily a family occupation. Each family has its own stylistic features and patterns of decoration. This paper includes a description of the kelaghayi workshop the author visited at Basqal, Ismayili Province, Azerbaijan, in May 2024.